WHEN cosmetics began disappearing from her bathroom drawer a few years ago, Gretchen Bain knew the culprit. Her husband, Jarrod.
It turned out that Jarrod, 34, a burly customs and border-protection officer whose uniform includes a 9-millimetre handgun, had developed a fondness for his wife’s under-eye concealer, which hid his occasional dark circles. He was also swiping her face lotions and mud masks.
“At one point, I just started buying stuff for him because I don’t want him stealing mine,” Gretchen said.
Now, she orders products online for him at Menaji.com, which bills itself as a “masculine” and “undetectable” line of cosmetics and skin-care products. His favourites are an eye gel and stick concealer that target dark circles, and an anti-shine powder that comes (shhh!) in a compact.
Whether they admit it or not, more men are using cosmetics, judging from sales figures and the number of new products arriving on store shelves.
But please don’t call it “make-up” – cosmetics marketers pointedly steer clear of the term, which men tend to find emasculating.
Neither the “manscara” look of Adam Lambert, the American Idol star, nor the “guyliner” stylings of Russell Brand, the comedian, will likely be adopted anytime soon by the guy who fixes your car. But men’s use of stealth make-up like concealers is on the upswing.
American consumers spent US$4.8 billion ($6.4 billion) on men’s grooming products last year, according to market data firm Euromonitor International. In 1997, the figure was half that.
Among the fastest growing men’s segments is skin care, which refers to non-shaving products like facial cleansers, moisturisers and exfoliants. That category grew more than fivefold over the period, to US$217 million from US$40.9 million.
While the data suggests more mirror time for men, it doesn’t give the full picture. By and large, men’s cosmetics are sold online by companies that fly under the radar of researchers.
Among those brands, business appears to be booming. Menaji, for example, reports a 70-per-cent increase in online sales over the last three years, according to Michele Probst, the make-up artist who founded the company 10 years ago.
“People thought it was nuts when I came out with the idea,” said Probst. “But men have always been very vain and always have groomed, and these are just new grooming tools.”
A Canadian men’s line, KenMen, has quadrupled sales since 2005, according to founder Lee Gilbert. The film industry make-up artist developed the products for Hollywood actors, but now many use her line every day off-screen, she said, though she declined to name any. KenMen’s products include Guy-liner pens, a slightly tinted lip salve and pens to “sculpt and define” eyebrows and to fill gaps in beards.
One argument that men’s cosmetics are going mainstream: Some men are not even self-conscious about using them. Jeffrey Lederer, 63, a principal in several investment partnerships and a former Wall Street trader, openly applies Menaji products – including a Bronze Star facial bronzing gel, concealer and anti-shine powder – after his workouts at a private Manhattan club.
Lederer, who wears tailor-made suits from Milan, called himself an “aesthetic person” who attains an “airbrushed look” from the cosmetics. Mainstream beauty brands are listening to men like him. Among the big-name brands that make products for men are Jean Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint Laurent and Clinique.
Julian Kynaston, the founder of Illamasqua, a unisex make-up line from England, said the obsession over whether make-up is manly ignores the past: “The irony for me is that it’s only in the last century that make-up and men parted company.”
As far back as 3500BC, Egyptian men and women wore an eye colour made of crushed ant eggs, perhaps more for the sake of sun protection than decoration, according to Stephan Kanlian, the chairman of the master’s programme at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Use of make-up by men was common among the ancient Greeks and Romans, and throughout the Renaissance, and America’s founding fathers powdered their cheeks as well as their wigs, Kanlian said.
Today, the heirs to this tradition include Peter Albert, 41, who directs a corporate training programme for an education company. He applies Illusionist Concealer by Vapour Organic Beauty to the circles under his eyes.
Fifteen per cent of Vapour Organic Beauty’s customers who order the make-up online have been men, “which is really kind of shocking”, said founder Eric Sakas.
But Sakas, who lives in Los Angeles and is hired to do women’s make-up in their homes for special occasions, said that something has been happening in the last couple of years that might have prepared him for this trend.
“I’ll be doing her make-up, and the husband will poke his head in and say, ‘Can you do anything for these dark circles under my eyes?’ or ‘Can you do anything for this redness?’”Sakas said. “That never used to happen before, and I would say it happens 60 per cent of the time now.”